1/22/2010

Halvah, Rugelach, and Everything else Israeli

I just returned from an amazing 10 days in Israel. In true RD fashion, I was amazed and intrigued by the food. This was my first trip to the middle east, so I had no expectations of the food, but I discovered all types of new tastes, likes, and even dislikes.

Israel is not only the 'motherland' for Jews, but also for Muslims and Christians. The country's disparate influences is clearly reflected in Israeli cuisine.

Jewish and Muslim (kosher and halal) dietary restrictions are similar: both religions prohibit pork and insist that animals are prepared for consumption in the same, specific way. There is variety though since every Jewish community (Ashkenazi, Sephardic, Yemenite, or Russian) has interpreted the culinary requirements of Judaism in its own way.

The hotels I stayed in served only kosher food, although if there weren't signs displayed everywhere, I would not have been able to tell the difference. A fundamental part of kosher law is that milk and meat cannot be mixed, so we didn't have coffee or a dairy dessert in the same kosher dining room where a meat meal was served.

Of course, I NEVER visit McDonald's in the US, but at one of our lunch stops, I was amazed to see that the McDonald's in Israel are all kosher - no cheeseburgers or milkshakes with your meal... My friends all said the kosher hamburger patties were much better than the ones they serve here in the US, but I would not know the difference.

During my trip I learned that the food I traditionally associate with 'Jewish food' is actually Eastern European - matzo balls soup, gefilte fish, latkes.... much to my disappointment, I couldn't find any of this in Israel. Most of the Jewish restaurants in Israel are owned by Jews who came from Arab countries, so the food has a strong Middle Eastern flare.

This country has chick peas everywhere!! A Middle Eastern staple and a humble legume, a chick pea can be fried into small balls and eaten as falafel on pita bread, or mashed into hummus and mopped up with pita bread. Also, warm chick peas are served as a bar snack rather than peanuts or pretzels - no joke! I don't think I ate one meal that didn't include chick peas in one form or another. Salads are also a staple, although this is not the salad you are thinking of... everything is pickled - picked cucumbers, olives, tomatoes, onions, beets, etc. You name it, they pickle it. The only time they served 'fresh' salad is at breakfast, who wants a crunchy salad at 7AM? Not this girl!

The meat and fish was quite underwhelming - usually over seasoned, but lacking in body. I guess Israelis usually fill up on the nutritional salads and forgo the main course. I had many meals that I took one bite of the entree and then decided to opt for the salad, hummus, and pita bread.

I experienced the wide variety of local fruit and vegetables in the Yehuda market or "shuk" in Jerusalem and the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv. Both markets were bustling with patrons looking for fresh fruit and veggies, meat, candy, challah, rugelach, borekas, havlah, falafel, shwarma, and even schnitzel.

Here's a few explanations of common Israeli foods:

Falafel are deep fried balls made from ground chick peas and is usually served as a light meal - cheap and vegetarian friendly. Falafel is most often served in pita bread with hummus, tahini, and a variety of toppings such as pickles, pickled turnips, cabbage, cucumber & tomato salad, and even french fries! I think I had falafel for lunch at least every other day!

Shwarma is a large, roasting skewer of grilled meat - traditionally lamb, but most commonly chicken - sliced and wrapped in pita bread. Toppings are similar to the ones used on falafel.

Schnitzel is typically made from a thin cutlet of chicken, breaded and fried. It kind of looks like a large chicken finger and is usually made into a sandwich, with the usual toppings, salads, and fries. I think I would live a very happy life if I never see schnitzel ever again - not my favorite item at all!

Borekas are small turnovers, made with phyllo dough and usually filled with potato, spinach, or cheese. They can be found along the side of the street and are best eaten hot as a snack or a side dish.

Halvah is often made with a base of tahini, mixed with honey and sesame seeds and kneaded into a tacky dough which is allowed to set before being cut and served. Some places split the dough in half and mix half with cocoa before mixing it back in, creating a rich marbled chocolate sesame halvah. Other places roll the dough in pistachios, other nuts, or even dried fruit. It has an interesting texture, but I enjoy it. Sometimes it's even packaged like a protein bar- a perfect snack when you are on-the-go discovering Israel.

Overall, I was not impressed with Israeli food and I am still waiting for my 'outstanding' meal. The few things that Israel is known for: hummus, falafel, and shwarma are delicious, but how much of it can you eat?

Enjoy my pictures!


Meat on the side of the street in Jaffa
More meat in Jaffa
and more - it's Kosher!
Challah in the Carmel Food Market, Tel Aviv
Olives anyone? Carmel Food Market, Tel Aviv
Jaffa oranges in the Carmel Food Market
There were pomegranates everywhere - so big, red, and delicious
More produce at the Carmel Food Market
Mushrooms
Check out how colorful those peppers are
Tomatoes on the vine - much more fresh and even cheaper than the ones in our supermarkets
Yemen desserts in Tel Aviv
All different flavors of Halvah
I think Israelis like their candy, there were bins like this in all of the markets
Fresh strawberries all in a row
My FAVORITE - rugelach. only 7 shekels for 7 of them (less than $3)
My first falafel in Tel Aviv - check out the French fries on top - so yummy!
My dinner in Rosh Pina: Lox and cream cheese with lemon on ciabatta bread
My lunch in Tzfat: vegetable "panini" that came out more like a calzone
Dinner at the Bedouin tent - no, there is no silverware and we were sitting on the floor...
Yemenite dessert
Kohlrabi in the shuk
Eggplant in the shuk
L'Chaim!

6 comments:

  1. so you found the salad for breakfast thing odd too?

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  3. Great post Rachel! I never thought of Kosher McDonald's. How interesting! Will I get kicked out if I eat a burger with milkshake? LOL.
    Thanks for sharing the story of your trip and Israeli foods. I wanna try those falafel and challah. They look so good!

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  4. Hey Rachel. I really enjoyed reading your article. And your food photos are amazing. I expecially love the Pomegranates picture. It's my favorite. Looks so juicy.
    I kind of agree with you about the food. After a while, you get kinda sick of eating salads for breakfast and falafal and shwarma every lunch. I was happy to come back to LA so I can eat more variety again.

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  5. Great post, glad you had fun! :)

    Truth is that the majority of foods that you've listed on here are street foods in Israel (exc. the schnitzel..which is excellent when it's well made, by the way); most Israelis eat a much healthier diet. Breakfasts are actually something more along the lines of a slice of bread, white cheese, and some salad. It's true what you've said about chickpeas..every Israeli home has hummus and a lot of salads.

    If you want to try/make some Israeli dishes yourself, I recommend Shakshuka, Cholent or Israeli "couscous" (Ptitim).

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  6. By the way, candy is always sold in huge quantities in these types of open-air markets..but they're not necessarily "fresh", hence they have an enourmous quantity all piled up. You can look up Barcelona markets if you want to see what a real candy stand in a market looks like; it's like every kid's wildest dream :)

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